RV Solar Systems

Stop paying campground hookup fees. Power your motorhome or travel trailer entirely from the sun.

Size My RV System

Why Add Solar to Your RV?

Save on Hookup Fees

Full hookup sites run $30–$60/night. Solar pays for itself in 1–2 seasons of boondocking.

Boondock Anywhere

National forests, BLM land, and dispersed campsites open up when you're not tethered to a power pedestal.

Silence the Generator

Solar + battery bank eliminates generator noise and fuel cost for most daytime and overnight loads.

Typical RV Power Consumption

The biggest factor in sizing your system is knowing what you need to run. Most RVers need to power:

AppliancePeak WattsDuty CycleTypical Hours/DayEst. Wh/Day
12V DC compressor fridge45W35%24h~378 Wh
LED lighting (3 fixtures)30W100%5h150 Wh
Laptop65W100%4h260 Wh
TV (32" LED)50W100%3h150 Wh
Phone charging ×240W100%3h120 Wh
Water pump60W15%24h216 Wh
Typical daily total~1,274 Wh

Use our calculator to add your exact appliances and get a precise recommendation.

Recommended System Sizes

Starter System
  • 200W solar (1× 200W panel)
  • 100Ah LiFePO4 (1,280 Wh)
  • 20A MPPT controller
  • 300W pure sine inverter

Good for: short weekend trips, minimal loads (fridge + lights + phone)

Standard System Most Popular
  • 400W solar (2× 200W panels)
  • 200Ah LiFePO4 (2,560 Wh)
  • 30A MPPT controller
  • 1,000W pure sine inverter

Good for: full-time boondocking, all standard loads, 2–3 days of autonomy

Full-Timer System
  • 800W+ solar (4× 200W panels)
  • 300–400Ah LiFePO4
  • 40–60A MPPT controller
  • 2,000W pure sine inverter

Good for: full-time living, AC unit capable (with generator backup for heavy AC use)

RV-Specific Tips

12V vs 24V System

Most RVs come pre-wired for 12V, so a 12V system is the easiest upgrade. If you're planning a full rewire or a large (400Ah+) battery bank, 24V reduces wire sizes and losses. Stick to 12V unless you have a compelling reason to rewire.

Roof Panel Mounting

Tilted mounts generate significantly more power in winter (low sun angle) but add wind resistance while driving. Flat-mounted panels are structurally simpler and more aerodynamic. Use Z-brackets or a rail system; never drill through the roof membrane without proper sealant.

Air Conditioning

A standard 13,500 BTU rooftop RV AC draws 1,500–2,000W. Running it from solar+battery is possible but expensive — you'd need 600W+ of solar and a large battery bank. Most full-timers use a generator for prolonged AC use and solar for everything else. Low-power 12V DC mini-split ACs (e.g., Mabru) are a newer, more efficient option.

Lithium vs AGM for RVs

LiFePO4 is the right choice for boondockers. AGM is cheaper upfront but: weighs 2–3× more, only 50% usable capacity (a 200Ah AGM = 100Ah usable), and lasts 300–500 cycles vs 3,000+ for lithium. Over 5 years, lithium is almost always cheaper.

Chassis Battery Isolation: Always use a battery isolator or DC-DC (B2B) charger between your RV house batteries and the chassis/starter battery. Without it, your solar charge controller may drain your starter battery or cause charging conflicts.
Battle Born 100Ah LiFePO4

The #1 choice for RV boondockers. 10-year warranty, series-connectable, made in the USA.

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Renogy 100Ah LiFePO4

Best value LiFePO4 for 12V RV systems. 5-year warranty with excellent support.

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Ready to size your RV solar system?

Use the RV preset in our calculator — it pre-loads typical RV appliances so you can tweak from there.

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