An inverter converts your battery's DC power to standard 120V AC. Choose the wrong one and you'll damage your electronics — or simply have a bad time. Here's everything you need to know.
Produces the same clean AC waveform as grid power. Safe for all electronics and appliances.
Compatible with: All motor-driven appliances (fridges, pumps, AC units), sensitive electronics, medical equipment, variable-speed tools, laptops, LED dimmers, audio equipment.
Cost: $80–$1,500+ depending on wattage. Worth every dollar.
Produces a stepped approximation of AC power — cheaper to build, but problematic with many loads.
Will damage or not work with: Variable-speed motors (fridge compressors), laser printers, some battery chargers, medical devices, audio equipment (hum), LED dimmers, many CPAP machines.
Cost: $30–$200. The savings aren't worth the risk.
An inverter must handle two load scenarios: continuous watts and surge/startup watts.
The inverter must handle the total wattage of everything running at the same time. Add up the watts of your appliances likely to run simultaneously:
Fridge (45W) + Laptop (65W) + Lights (30W) + Water pump (60W) = 200W continuous → 300W+ inverter
Motors draw 3–7× their rated watts at startup. A fridge compressor rated at 150W may pull 600–900W for 1–3 seconds on startup. Your inverter's surge rating must handle this:
Fridge surge (600W) + other loads (200W) = 800W surge needed → 1,000W+ inverter
| Inverter Size | Use Case | Can Run | Cannot Run |
|---|---|---|---|
| 300–500W | Van / small RV | Laptop, phone, LED TV, fan, small appliances | Microwave, AC unit, hair dryer |
| 1,000–1,500W | RV / cabin standard | All above + coffee maker (briefly), AC fridge | Microwave at full power, hair dryer, AC unit |
| 2,000–3,000W | RV full-timer / cabin | All above + microwave, hair dryer, small AC | Full-size AC unit (1.5+ tons), electric dryer |
| 4,000–5,000W | Home backup / off-grid | All above + window AC, well pump, power tools | Central AC, electric range, electric water heater |
| 5,000–8,000W | Whole-home off-grid (48V) | Almost anything except heavy HVAC loads | Electric dryer, large electric range (at full power) |
Not all inverters are created equal. Beyond waveform quality, inverters differ in what functions they combine into one unit. Here are the main categories:
Converts battery DC to AC. That's it — no charging, no solar input.
Best for: Small van/RV builds, simple setups where you only use solar + battery.
Examples: Renogy 1000W/2000W PSW, Victron Phoenix
Combines an inverter, battery charger, and automatic transfer switch in one unit.
Best for: RVs with shore power, cabins with a generator, any system that has an AC input source.
Examples: Victron MultiPlus-II, Schneider Conext XW+, Magnum MS-PAE
Everything in one box: inverter + charger + transfer switch + built-in MPPT charge controller.
Best for: Home off-grid systems, large cabin builds, anyone who wants simplicity.
Examples: Growatt SPF 5000ES, EG4 6000XP, Sol-Ark 12K
Designed for grid-connected solar systems. Converts solar DC directly to AC and feeds it into the grid — no batteries.
Best for: Grid-connected homes that want to reduce their electric bill, net metering setups.
Examples: Enphase IQ8 (micro), SolarEdge SE, SMA Sunny Boy
MPPT controllers maximize your solar harvest. Match to your array size.
Browse ControllersOur system calculator determines your peak load and recommends the correct inverter wattage for your specific appliances.
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