Stop paying campground hookup fees. Power your motorhome or travel trailer entirely from the sun.
Size My RV SystemFull hookup sites run $30–$60/night. Solar pays for itself in 1–2 seasons of boondocking.
National forests, BLM land, and dispersed campsites open up when you're not tethered to a power pedestal.
Solar + battery bank eliminates generator noise and fuel cost for most daytime and overnight loads.
The biggest factor in sizing your system is knowing what you need to run. Most RVers need to power:
| Appliance | Peak Watts | Duty Cycle | Typical Hours/Day | Est. Wh/Day |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 12V DC compressor fridge | 45W | 35% | 24h | ~378 Wh |
| LED lighting (3 fixtures) | 30W | 100% | 5h | 150 Wh |
| Laptop | 65W | 100% | 4h | 260 Wh |
| TV (32" LED) | 50W | 100% | 3h | 150 Wh |
| Phone charging ×2 | 40W | 100% | 3h | 120 Wh |
| Water pump | 60W | 15% | 24h | 216 Wh |
| Typical daily total | ~1,274 Wh | |||
Use our calculator to add your exact appliances and get a precise recommendation.
RV roof space varies dramatically by type. Here’s a rough guide after accounting for AC units, vents, and antennas:
400–800W
20–30 ft models
600–1200W
Flat upper deck
400–600W
Cab-over limits space
800–1600W
Largest roof area
The most common RV mounting method. Z-brackets bolt to the panel frame and screw into the roof with Dicor self-leveling sealant over the screws. Provides a 1–2 inch air gap for cooling. Panels sit flat — no tilt adjustment. Best for full-time travelers who move frequently.
Adjustable tilt brackets let you angle panels 15–45° toward the sun. This can boost output by 15–25% in winter when the sun is lower. Worth the extra cost if you boondock in one spot for days or weeks. Not ideal for frequent driving — you must lay panels flat before moving.
Portable suitcase panels (100–200W) that you set up on the ground and connect via a long cable. Great as a supplement — you can angle them at the sun and place them in unshaded spots while your RV is parked in shade. Not a replacement for roof panels on larger systems.
Good for: short weekend trips, minimal loads (fridge + lights + phone)
Good for: full-time boondocking, all standard loads, 2–3 days of autonomy
Good for: full-time living, AC unit capable (with generator backup for heavy AC use)
Most RVs come pre-wired for 12V, so a 12V system is the easiest upgrade. If you're planning a full rewire or a large (400Ah+) battery bank, 24V reduces wire sizes and losses. Stick to 12V unless you have a compelling reason to rewire.
A standard 13,500 BTU rooftop RV AC draws 1,500–2,000W. Running it from solar+battery is possible but expensive — you'd need 600W+ of solar and a large battery bank. Most full-timers use a generator for prolonged AC use and solar for everything else. Low-power 12V DC mini-split ACs (e.g., Mabru) are a newer, more efficient option.
LiFePO4 is the right choice for boondockers. AGM is cheaper upfront but: weighs 2–3× more, only 50% usable capacity (a 200Ah AGM = 100Ah usable), and lasts 300–500 cycles vs 3,000+ for lithium. Over 5 years, lithium is almost always cheaper.
The #1 choice for RV boondockers. 10-year warranty, series-connectable, made in the USA.
View on AmazonBest value LiFePO4 for 12V RV systems. 5-year warranty with excellent support.
View on AmazonUse the RV preset in our calculator — it pre-loads typical RV appliances so you can tweak from there.
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