Stop paying campground hookup fees. Power your motorhome or travel trailer entirely from the sun.
Size My RV SystemFull hookup sites run $30–$60/night. Solar pays for itself in 1–2 seasons of boondocking.
National forests, BLM land, and dispersed campsites open up when you're not tethered to a power pedestal.
Solar + battery bank eliminates generator noise and fuel cost for most daytime and overnight loads.
The biggest factor in sizing your system is knowing what you need to run. Most RVers need to power:
| Appliance | Peak Watts | Duty Cycle | Typical Hours/Day | Est. Wh/Day |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 12V DC compressor fridge | 45W | 35% | 24h | ~378 Wh |
| LED lighting (3 fixtures) | 30W | 100% | 5h | 150 Wh |
| Laptop | 65W | 100% | 4h | 260 Wh |
| TV (32" LED) | 50W | 100% | 3h | 150 Wh |
| Phone charging ×2 | 40W | 100% | 3h | 120 Wh |
| Water pump | 60W | 15% | 24h | 216 Wh |
| Typical daily total | ~1,274 Wh | |||
Use our calculator to add your exact appliances and get a precise recommendation.
RV roof space varies dramatically by type. Here’s a rough guide after accounting for AC units, vents, and antennas:
400–800W
20–30 ft models
600–1200W
Flat upper deck
400–600W
Cab-over limits space
800–1600W
Largest roof area
The most common RV mounting method. Z-brackets bolt to the panel frame and screw into the roof with Dicor self-leveling sealant over the screws. Provides a 1–2 inch air gap for cooling. Panels sit flat — no tilt adjustment. Best for full-time travelers who move frequently.
Adjustable tilt brackets let you angle panels 15–45° toward the sun. This can boost output by 15–25% in winter when the sun is lower. Worth the extra cost if you boondock in one spot for days or weeks. Not ideal for frequent driving — you must lay panels flat before moving.
Portable suitcase panels (100–200W) that you set up on the ground and connect via a long cable. Great as a supplement — you can angle them at the sun and place them in unshaded spots while your RV is parked in shade. Not a replacement for roof panels on larger systems.
Good for: short weekend trips, minimal loads (fridge + lights + phone)
Good for: full-time boondocking, all standard loads, 2–3 days of autonomy
Good for: full-time living, AC unit capable (with generator backup for heavy AC use)
Most RVs come pre-wired for 12V, so a 12V system is the easiest upgrade. If you're planning a full rewire or a large (400Ah+) battery bank, 24V reduces wire sizes and losses. Stick to 12V unless you have a compelling reason to rewire.
A standard 13,500 BTU rooftop RV AC draws 1,500–2,000W. Running it from solar+battery is possible but expensive — you'd need 600W+ of solar and a large battery bank. Most full-timers use a generator for prolonged AC use and solar for everything else. Low-power 12V DC mini-split ACs (e.g., Mabru) are a newer, more efficient option.
LiFePO4 is the right choice for boondockers. AGM is cheaper upfront but: weighs 2–3× more, only 50% usable capacity (a 200Ah AGM = 100Ah usable), and lasts 300–500 cycles vs 3,000+ for lithium. Over 5 years, lithium is almost always cheaper.
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Most travel trailers land between 200 and 800 W. A weekend trailer running a 12 V fridge, lights, water pump and phones uses about 1 to 1.5 kWh a day and is covered by 200 to 400 W. A 30 ft trailer used full time without air conditioning uses 3 to 4 kWh a day and needs 800 to 1,000 W. Add the rooftop AC and you are at 2 kW or more, which rarely fits on the roof. Size from your daily watt-hours with the RV calculator rather than from the trailer length.
With 400 W of solar and 200 Ah of LiFePO4 you can run a 12 V compressor fridge, LED lights, the water pump, fans, a TV, laptops, phones and a CPAP every day, and a microwave or coffee maker for a few minutes. What you cannot run for long is anything that makes heat or cold from electricity: the rooftop air conditioner, an electric water heater, a space heater or an induction cooktop. Those need shore power, a generator, or a 2 kW plus array with a 10 kWh battery.
The 50 amp rating describes the shore power pedestal (12 kW), not your consumption. A typical 50 amp motorhome uses 3 to 5 kWh a day without air conditioning, which is 800 to 1,200 W of solar, roughly three to six 200 W panels. Running one 13,500 BTU rooftop AC for 8 hours adds about 6 kWh and pushes the array to 2.2 kW or more, so most owners run the AC on the generator and let solar carry everything else.
Yes. Solar charges the house batteries through its own charge controller and has nothing to do with the 30 amp shore connection, which is a 3,600 W limit on what you can draw from the pedestal. A 1 kW array with 10 kWh of LiFePO4 and a 2,000 to 3,000 W inverter runs everything except the air conditioner. Many fifth wheels are pre-wired with a roof-top connector; check its wire gauge before pushing more than 400 to 500 W through it.
A single 200 W panel produces roughly 800 to 1,000 Wh on a sunny day, enough for a 12 V compressor fridge, LED lights, the water pump and phone charging, with a 100 to 200 Ah LiFePO4 battery to carry the night. A 300 W panel adds room for a laptop and a small 230 V or 120 V inverter for chargers and a TV. One panel will not run a microwave for long, an electric water heater, or any air conditioning.
Select the battery type that matches your batteries: sealed or AGM, or flooded. Typical settings are absorption 14.4 to 14.6 V, float 13.6 to 13.8 V, and equalization only for flooded cells (about 15.0 V, monthly). At 12 V, 400 W of panels can deliver up to 33 A, so a 30 A PWM controller clips a little at midday; a 40 A MPPT controller captures it all and runs the panels in series at higher voltage. Keep in mind that 160 Ah of lead-acid is only about 80 Ah (1 kWh) usable, which is under a day for a typical camper, so the batteries are the bottleneck rather than the controller.
A compact European motorhome roof usually takes one or two panels, 200 to 400 W in total. Pair them with a 12 V 100 to 200 Ah LiFePO4 battery, a 30 A MPPT controller and a 1,000 to 2,000 W 230 V pure sine inverter. That covers a compressor fridge, lights, water pump, laptops, phones and small kitchen appliances for short bursts. An electric water heater (geyser) at 1.5 to 2 kW or an electric hob should stay on gas or diesel, because they would empty a 200 Ah battery in an hour or two.
Use the RV preset in our calculator — it pre-loads typical RV appliances so you can tweak from there.
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