feet
Click "Calculate Wire Gauge" after the system calculator has run.
Fuse/breaker recommendations appear after calculation.
Size your RV solar system in minutes. Whether you have a Class A motorhome, travel trailer, or fifth wheel — enter your appliances and get exact component recommendations.
Pre-loaded with typical RV appliances. Adjust wattage and hours to match your camping style.
Pick a preset to load typical appliances, or skip and add your own below.
The duty cycle accounts for appliances that don't run at full power continuously. A refrigerator compressor cycles on/off (~35% of the time); a lamp stays on 100%.
| Appliance | Peak Watts | Duty Cycle % | Hours/Day | Wh/Day | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Daily Total: | 0 Wh | ||||
Most travel trailers have 80–160 sq ft of roof space, while Class A motorhomes can fit 200+ sq ft. That translates to 400–1200W of solar. Use rigid panels with Z-brackets or tilt mounts — the extra tilt can boost output by 15–25% in shoulder seasons when the sun is lower.
If you primarily boondock (dry camp), size your system for 2–3 days of autonomy to handle cloudy stretches. Weekend warriors who mostly use hookups can get away with a smaller system — even 200W of solar and a single 100Ah LiFePO4 battery handles lights, fridge, and charging.
Running rooftop AC from solar is possible but expensive. A 15,000 BTU AC draws 1,500–1,800W continuously. You'd need at least 800W of solar, a 3000W+ inverter, and 400Ah+ of LiFePO4 for a few hours of midday cooling. Many RVers skip solar AC and use generator or hookups for that.